Pleasurable Places in Leisurely Lashio
Dr Maung Maung Nyo
Preamble
I thought my life in Lashio was less hectic than in Mongton, but in reality I was on demand most of the time from 8.00 AM to 4.00 PM all the weekdays and from 8.00 AM to 12.00 noon on Saturdays. So I had a free time off duty in the Saturday afternoons and on Sundays. That was if I were in Lashio.
(Lashio Town, Northern Shan State)
I did not enjoy that luxury if I were on the march in the military operations when I had to walk on foot 12 miles a day and treat all the injured and sick, both military and civilian. So friends asked me to enjoy my stay in Lashio by visiting the pleasurable or pleasing places in Lashio and to learn about them that I did as much as possible. Major Hla (Anyar usage; Major Maung Hla, Lower Burma's usage) and wife, Dr Ivan Win Pe, Daw Kyin Mu, Daw Ohn May and staff of my LADS supported my efforts or accompanied me. Enjoy.
(Map of Lashio Showing Interesting Places for a Visit)
Hot Spa and
One Sunday Major Hla and his wife came to me with their little daughter Wettima. It’s a Burmese name in rhyme with
(Hot Spa, Lashio, Northern Shan State)
I met him at the Thazi train station calling Lieutenant Tun Kyi (Lieutenant-General in the SPDC) to send a car to fetch him from Thazi to Meiktila. I offered him a lift and we became fast friends, he being senior to me by age, experience, wisdom and rank. His wife Daw Aye Ngwe was a Karen, well-built and pretty. She was younger than him. “Let’s go to the hot spa (Stream) and have picnic there”, Major Hla said to me. “OK, Bohmu”, I replied and changed to a slack and sport shirt. This was the time I could wear the mufti.
(Big Pool in Lashio, Northern Shan State)
The hot spa (Stream) was situated near the AT (Animal Transport Unit) Gate in Lashio on the way to Hsenwi and Muse. It was well guarded by the AT Company soldier as it was situated on the nearer side to the
(Palaung People Returning from School and Work in Lashio)
I changed my clothes and wore a swim short and swam. It was warm and cozy.
But, my skin became red from vasodilatation and I walked up the bank after about ten minutes. I dried myself with a towel and changed to the slack and sport shirt again.” Saya, you look like movie star Maung Thin”, Major Hla teased me. Maung Thin was my hero and he was a docor in the army, a writer and then a movie star. His wife smiled. We had a good lunch of bread, sausages, roasted beef and
(A Chinese Beauty in Lashio)
The hot stream was a major attraction for Lashio and most visitors to Lashio visited it. It was small and free of charge during our time, but I later heard that it was transformed into a big pool with private bath rooms charging a nominal fee. I used to visit it quite often during my stay in Lashio and I took my friends to it for picnic there when they visited me. They included Drs Myo Min, Kyaw Kyaw, Tun Hla Pru. Colonel Tun Hla Pru was visiting me from DSGH through BMH Maymyo and I hosted him well and showed around Lashio. He was very pleased with me and he informed me of opening a new medical college in Mingaladon that required new bright doctors for further study. I told him I got distinction in anatomy at the 2nd MB examination and I belonged to the special premedical class of scholarship holders since 7th standard. Colonel Ko Ko Gyi, Dean of the Medical College 2, was impressed with my curriculum vitae and I was called to the MC 2 for further study.
(Drs Nan Ommar and Maung Maung Nyo)
I had a patient who complained of headache and palpitation after taking bath in the hot stream. She was only 18 years of age and studying at the matriculation class, but she was very beautiful and well proportioned. She used to visit my clinic (OPD in the military hospital) very often and Major Hla warned me I must be careful not to be more friendly than necessary. She lived near the
One day, Ma Ohn May asked me whether I could take her and Ma Kyin Mu on coming Sunday to the Chinese temple in Lashio.(Ma means a person younger than Daw).” Yes, I can. But why do you want to go to the Chinese temple? You are not Chinese and me neither”, I told her. “Of course, we’re not Chinese. But the temple is beautiful and you will like it. And there is Chinese stick Bedin (Fortune Telling or Prediction) reputed to be correct”, she replied. So, I promised them I would take them to the Chinese temple at about 9.30 AM coming Sunday and I would provide them with picnic food. I asked my cook Corporal Tin Nyunt to prepare for it. I also asked Driver Hla Min to drive for me. My batman Maung Ohn would carry the food basket and drinks in Thermos Flasks and bottles.
(The Chinese Temple in Lashio)
On the appointed day, I wore Inle Pasoe (Silk Longyi), a sport shirt and a light Jerkin as it was cool in the morning. Maung Ohn put all the food and bottles in one big basket and carried it to the Jeep ambulance. The ambulance was so roomy it could carry 8 persons comfortably. The car was new at the time, being issued and used for just one year only. I sat in the front seat with Driver Hla Min. I asked him to drive to Daw Kyin Mu’s house near Manzu Pagoda. She was ready and waiting. I gave her my seat and I asked Hla Min to go to a back seat as I liked to drive. I drove to Bama Quarter to fetch Daw Ohn May. She was also ready and waiting for us. We arrived at the
(Interior of the Chinese Temple with a Statue of Chinese god)
She first had to pay two Kyats to the old Chinaman guarding the sticks kept in a brass jar. He asked her date of birth and year. Then he uttered some words in Chinese and asked Ma Ohn May to draw a stick from the brass jar. She then had to hand over the stick to him and he read the Chinese Characters written on the stick. Then he took out a prediction paper written for that stick. He gave the following predictions.
(Chinese Temple in Lashio Where Stick Astrology was Provided)
For Ma Ohn May: “This year is auspicious for you. There is an eligible bachelor admiring you. Accept his proposal for marriage. Good fortune awaiting you.”
“Well, very good, Ma Ohn May. Accept the proposal and invite us to your wedding”, I teased her. She smiled heartily and replied,”Sure. I will.” It was true she invited me to her wedding to a fellow teacher of her High School before I left Lashio. We followed Ma Ohn May's example paid five Kyats to the Chinese astrologer.
(A Marble Statue of Kwan Yin, Goddess of Mercy and Future Buddha)
For Ma Kyin Mu: This year is perplexing to you. Not yet decided. No Marriage yet. Economically OK.
For Maung Maung Nyo: This year is auspicious for you. Further study awaits you. Marriage lies in the far horizon. You are still in a strict disciplined environment.
“I say, Maung Nyo. You are not winning. Try harder”, Ma Ohn May said. We laughed and had picnic on the brick verandahs of the temple. It was composed of bread, bacon, fried eggs, sardine, tea, coffee and biscuits. Apples and bananas were also provided.“I don’t believe in fortune telling” I said, but the predictions were generally correct.
The
One Sunday, Major Hla called me to go to a place outside Lashio. “It’s a natural cave and tunnel under a big rock. It was not accessible before due to insurgents, but it’s safe now as it’s under our control.” “OK, I’ll come along with you”, I said and changed to slack trousers and sport shirt. Major Hla was taking his wife, Daw Aye Ngwe, and his daughter in his Willy Jeep. There was another Willy Jeep carrying Major Myint Thein’s family. I drove my own ambulance jeep.
(A Highway Map of Burma Showing Lashio and Connected Towns)
The rock was situated about 3 or 4 miles south east of Lashio in a clearing near a teak forest. The rock rising above the ground was about 30 or 40 feet high, 70 or 80 feet wide. It was of granite type of rock. There were holes the size of a house door and we could easily enter. Major Myint Thein’s wife had claustrophobia and she retreated after entering a few feet. A young lad from the Artillery Battalion accompanying Major Hla guided us to the interior. Daw Aye Ngwe and I followed him. We descended down to about 10 feet, we walked for about another 10 feet and then climbed on a wooden ladder already there to look around the tunnel and cave. “Well, it has been improvised”, I told the lad.“Yes. Bogyi. We made the ladder and put it here so that visitors can easily continue the trip.” I took us about 30 minutes to complete the tour. Soldiers do not address medical officers as Saya. Only the army officers would address them as such.
(A US Opium Survey Team Visited Hsenwi in 2007)
The interior of the cave was like a maze and it was clean. “Ahmagyi (Elder sister), Congratulations! You are brave”, I told Daw Aye Ngwe. “Not so much. It’s a natural cave visited by so many before us. So I’m not afraid”, she replied.
“Saya, Ma Aye Ngwe is very brave, She dared to sleep alone in our house in Hmawbi when I went out for the country side. She also accompanied us every where in hunting in the forest. Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed it”, Major Hla commented. We then drove back to Lashio and had coffee and snacks prepared by Daw Aye Ngwe in her home.
Goke-Hteik (Gokteik Viaduct and Gorge)
One day, my friend Dr Ivan Win Pe asked me,” Maung Nyo, can you take us to
(Goke-Hteik or Gokteik Viaduct and Bridge)
Thus I took Ivan, his friends 3 in number, one lady and two gentlemen, to the Gokteik by car one early Sunday and showed the famous chasm spanned by a world famous rail road bridge.
I give you an interesting account of Gokteik from Wikipedia below:
Gokteik Viaduct
| | Tue Oct 29 2002 at 4:38:50 | |
| The Gokteik Viaduct is located in Upper Burma in the Shan state. It is a compelling structure in the middle of the rock cliffs and thick jungle of the Shan Plateau. The Gokteik Viaduct is a steel trestle railroad bridge that spans the Gokteik Gorge. It is part of the Lashio branch of the Union of Burma Railways. Lashio is about 50 miles west of the border with China. Lashio is the terminus of the Lashio branch.
The Gokteik Viaduct was built in 1899 by the Pennsylvania Steel Company. At the time, During WWII the bridge sustained damage by the Japanese who invaded In Paul Theroux's book The Great Railway Bazaar one of his goals is to take in the Gokteik Viaduct. Theroux read about the bridge in a couple of railroad books published early in the 20th century. He meets resistance almost every step of the way, being told that foreign tourists are not permitted to see the bridge. But he manages to overcome each obstacle and eventually sees the bridge and rides over it.
(Goke-Twin or the Gokteik Chasm, a Deep Ravine)
It was Theroux's account of the Gokteik Viaduct that I remembered the most from his book and was the primary muse for this writeup.Sources:
The Great Railway Bazaar : By Train Through
| ||
U Paw U’s Pagoda
I used to drive past a pagoda on my way to the Myoma Market in Lashio from my hospital. It was situated on a mound near the junction of three roads. It was not gilted except the umbrella at the top. “What pagoda is this?” I asked Ma Kyin Mu one day. “It’s U Paw U’s Pagoda known as Manzu Pagoda. Do you want to go there and pay homage to it?” she asked. ‘Yes, I do”, I answered. We therefore went to it one Sunday morning when there was sunshine and cool breeze.
(Sudaungpye Pagoda or U Paw U's in Lashio)
It was built by King’s Minister U Paw U during the reign of King Bodawphaya. The King was annoyed with U Paw U’s antics in protesting his endeavours to give a lavish christening ceremony to his grandson who would later become King Bagyidaw or th Sagaing Min. As he had granted the lifelong favour of unlimited living (Thet-Taw-Shay) to U Paw U King Bodawphaya could not kill him. So he sent him to Hsenwi as a punishment similar to that given to Letwethondara U Myat San by his elder brother King Sinbyushin when U Myat San’s servant was involved with a royal courtesan.
(Manzu Pagoda, Lashio)
U Paw U went on exile at Hsenwi, meditated and built a pagoda out of his money and lived there for one year after which he sent an apology poem to King Bodawphaya copying the U Myat San’s poem from the beginning to the end. That was Meza Taung Jay Che Ratu ( At the foothill of Meza Pyo). King Bodawphaya relented and pardoned U Paw U and reinstated. He asked U Paw U,” Paw U, your poem is exactly like Letwethondara U Myat San’s Mezataung Jay Che Pyo!” U Paw U replied,” We have the same brain , Your Majesty.” The King and other ministers laughed heartily for his joke.
(Mahamuni Buddha Image Brought by King Bodawphaya to Mandalay)
Writer Htin Lin, U Thein Maung in real life and a native of U Paw U’s village Daze (Tant Ze) in the Shwebo District, wondered whether U Paw U was a real person or an invention as his stories are so witty and humorous beside being pulling the legs of his master, King Bodawphaya. I found U Paw U’s Pagoda and paid homage to it respectfully. “He named this Pagoda Manzu as it’s the wrath of the King made him come here and build it”, Ma Kyin Mu told me. But it may be a Chinese word “Mansu or Manshu” meaning men history. There is a famous Manshu Treatise on the history of ancient
Hsenwi (Theinni)
“ Saya, I’m going to some areas around Lashio for inspection. Would you like to come along?” Major Hla invited me one day. “Yes, I would be delighted”, I replied. Thus I happened to visit some places around Lashio where there were artillery units. The first and foremost station was Hsenwi or Theinni by the Burmese. It means a million banana brunches in Shan language.
(Opium Poppy Field in Hsenwi Township)
The late Daw Mi Mi Khaing had written about Hsenwi as follows:
“The present state of Hsenwi comprises an area of 6442 square miles. It is bounded on the north by various Chinese Shan States, that is to say, states of Shans under the suzerainty of China; on the east by the Burmese Chinese State of Kokang, in which a population of Chinese have been feudatory to the Shan Sawbwa of Hsenwi for centuries back; and on the south and west by the State of Hsipaw, Mongmit and South Hsenwi.
These present boundaries enclose what is more correctly called the
(Poppy Fields on the Hills f Hsenwi)
The southern portion of this old state covered in theory, the present states of Kehsi Mansam, Mongnawng, Monghsu, Mongkung, and Laikha, its central part the present Mongyai or
(Small Track Namtu-Lashio Rail Track and Train)
Eventually the son of the Sawbwa, Sao Mong, who had been held prisoner in
(Namtu Bawdwin's Houses and Workers in the Bawdwin Mine)
After a conference held at Mongyai with the British, Khun Sang Tone Hung, Sao Mong and Circle representatives present, it was decided to divide Hsenwi into North and South. The southern part, with its capital at Mongyai was given to Sao Mong (i.e., the original dynasty of Hsenwi) while Khun Sang Tone Hung was confirmed Sawbwa of
(Bawdwin Rail Truck, Namtu, Northern Shan State)
Hsenwi is situated on the road branching, one to Kutkhai to the north and another Tantyang to the east. It has more
Namtu Mine
There is a rail road connecting Lashio and Namtu. The latter has the famous mine extracting silver, lead and nickle since the 19th century. A president of the
(Bawdwin Mine, Namtu, Northern Shan State)
Namtu is only about 12 miles away from Lashio by rail.
The Wikipedia Encyclopedia on line records this for Namtu Bawdwin Mine:
“History
The Namtu Bawdwin Mines were the world's largest source of lead, and one of the world's largest sources of silver before the Second World War.[3]Before the British arrived in the 1880s, the Saopha of Tawngpeng controlled the mines at Namtu, although the mining work was undertaken not by the Palaung but by the Chinese from Yunnan Province across the border. The mines fell into disuse when the lode was followed to the ground water level.[4]They were revived by the British and the largest mines were operated by the Burma Corporation at the beginning of the 20th century.[5]Today the Namtu mines are under state control, known as No 1 Mining Enterprise and run by the Ministry of Mines.[6]
(Namtu Bawtwin Mine, 1920-1930)
Lead, zinc and nickle are also produced by the mines. Zinc was bought mainly by Japan, and the other minerals sent to Namtu for smelting before being marketed abroad.[7]
In February 1998, 3,000 workers went on strike for better working conditions and increase in wages for underground miners.[1][8]
A Chinese company won the contract in 2002 for the construction of a zinc oxide plant at Namtu, processing 50,000 tonnes of zinc slag annually and the zinc oxide to be exported to a smelter in Yunnan.[9]
(Namtu Bawdwin or Bawtwin Mine Near Lashio, Northern Shan State)
Politics
The Shan State Army (SSA-North)'s Third Brigade has been active in Mongmit, Kyaukme, Hsipaw, Namtu and Lashio. It reached a cease-fire agreement with the Burmese military government (SLORC) in 1989, and its activities have been severely curtailed.[10][11]The Palaung State Liberation Organization, also active in the region and another one of the cease-fire groups, announced a ban on the cultivation of the opium poppy in the area under their control. They had alleged that the Burmese military was levying a tax on the poppy farmers.[12]”
(Namtu Bawtwin Mine in 2007)
Conclusion
I enjoyed my stay in Lashio. I made a lot of friends there and I visited various parts of the
Dr Maung Maung Nyo
21.02.2009
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