Scenic Seductive Simple Hsipaw

Dr Maung Maung Nyo

Prologue

Hsipaw (Thibaw for the Burmese) is familiar to all the Burmese as it’s the name of Burma’s last king that the British dethroned and annexed the country in the British Empire on the First of January 1886. It’s disquieting and igniting us with indignant feeling when it was stated that the declaration of annexation was a New Year Gift to Queen Victoria. How callous they were!

(A Panoramic View of Hsipaw and Dotthawaddy, Myitnge, River)

Actually the name Hsibaw or Thibaw is closely linked with the Burmese History as the Saopha or Sawbwa of Hsibaw was elected to be a King of Ava on the death of King Thadominpya in Ava. Swa Sao Ke (Mingyi Swa Saw Ke) was his name. And then when Mingyi Yan Naung killed the cruel and callous King Sao Hung Hpa (Tho Han Bwa) he did not ascend the throne but gave it to On-Bong Khon Hmaing as the King of Ava and hence Burma. The Shan and Burman had mixed remarkably well in the Ava period.

(King Thibaw, or King Hsipaw, and Queen Suphayalatt of Burma)

The late King Thibaw was just the last King of Burma that had mixed blood. His mother was a princess of the House of Hsibaw, Queen Long Shay. She was the daughter of the Saopha of Hsipaw who supported King Mindon in the latter’s fight for the throne from the erratic King Bagan. He was thus rewarded by making his daughter a queen in the Mandalay Palace.

The Saophas of Hsipaw continued maintaining the Mandalay traditions in Hsipaw after the end of Mandalay Period of Konbaung Dynasty as Daw Saw Mya Aye Kyi, the Grand Old Dame of Burmese Classical Music, was a product of the Hsipaw House after independence in 1948. The Hsipaw House had connections with other houses of the Shan States and thus Burma and the Shan State are linked together through her (Hsipaw). My grandmother used to say, “A pure Burman has Shan blood, and a pure Shan is a Bamar!”

(Reconstructed Mandalay Palace)

I have been to Hsipaw several times as a student as well as a doctor. Sometime I went there for a visit, sometime I passed through it on my way to Lashio and sometime I transited through it on my way to Mandalay or Meiktila from Lashio. I always enjoy my sojourns to Hsipaw.

(Map pf Northern Shan State Including Hsipaw; Note Road Connections

in Red.)

History of Hsipaw

Hsipaw was one of the original 33 States of the Shan (34 later with the addition of Kokagn). It was once one of the biggest or the biggest Shan State and it had precedent over other Shan States. It had intricate relationship with the Burmese royalty since the days of King Bayinnaung and King Thibaw capped the relationship.

My friend Daw Mi Mi Khaing , wife of the Prince of Kengtung House Sao Sai Mong Mangrai, wrote about its history as follows:

Hsipaw town, as the capital even of the Hsipaw State alone, is comparatively recent. State chronicles of past times show a great deal of Burmese influence in the tales and Burmese association in the events, as is to be expected. They take us back right to the time of Abiyaza and Tagaung, From Tagaung, they say a descendant of Abiyaza came to found the old kingdom of Mong Mao, further north, which was the original Kambawza of the Shans. From here stemmed four sons taking rule over various North Burma capitals, one of them being Mongmit and On Baung combined. By this time the chronicle has reached 58 BC, and records thereafter a succession of rulers who spent their winters in Mongmit and summers in On Baung, and who had relations with Mong Mao, Prome and later on Ava.

(Shan or Tai Areas Map Once Controlled by King Bayinnaung)

Thus the records bring us to the early 16th century when, during chaotic days in Burma following the end of the Pagan dynasty and establishment of a Shan supremacy in Upper Burma, the On Baung ruler, Sao Khun Mong, was invited to become King of Ava. Taking care to establish his brothers and sons over various Shan States, Sao Khun Mong accepted and went to Ava as King. His dynasty lasted only two generations however. He was succeeded by his son from Mongpai who before long was put to flight by an uprising. Mongpai went to King Bayinnaung of Pegu for refuge and found himself made prisoner instead. So he fled again, this time to his uncle of On Baung. This brought Bayinnaung with a large force to the boundaries of Hsipaw. On Baung greeted him with a submission which included that of all the other Shan chiefs behind him. Thus they all became tributary again to a Burmese king and boundaries were fixed which gave the King of Burma the Ruby Mines Tract and the gem city of Mogok. In return (so the Hsipaw chronicle has it) the Shan States were all placed under Hsipaw.

(King Bayinnaung, Conqueror of Hsipaw and all Othr Shan States

Including Laos and Thailand)

Thus the descendants of On Baung dynasty continued their rule till 1714 when they shifted capital to Hsipaw. From now on they had close marital connections with the Alaungpaya dynasty in Burma. In King Thibaw's time, however, Sao Khun Saing, 18th Chief since the surrender to Bayinnaung, decided he could take no more of exactions levied from Mandalay and fled south. He went to Siam, then Rangoon, did a jeweler's trade, got imprisoned and then expelled by the British, fled to Karenni, and there mustering a force returned to Hsipaw. He found it in chaos and took possession then went to Mandalay and submitted to the British as Sawbwa of Hsipaw, the first Shan Chief to do so. For this early submission he was given rule over the four amalgamated states --- and was later on presented to Queen Victoria.

Burmese Beauty Sao Ohn Nyunt

It’s interesting to learn that the Burmese beauty painted by the Royal Artist Kelly Sao Ohn Nyunt was a princess of the Hsipaw. She was married to the son of Kentung Sawbwa, and thus related to Sao Sai Mong. My late friend Mi Mi Khaing wrote about them as follows:

(The Burmese Beauty Sao Ohn Nyunt Painted by

Sir Gene Kelly in London Before WW II)

“The lavishness reached its highest and most recent display in the marriage of Sao Khun Mong, one of the elder sons of Kengtung to Sao Ohn Nyunt, sister of the Mahadevi and cousin to Sao On Kya in 1934, when the programme of religious, social and charity giving festivities lasted for a month of days and nights. And when, a last backwash from the Society of the early 20th century in Burma whose ladies first learned the piano as an accomplishment, welcomed the Prince of Wales, wore shoes and stockings, ordered teas from the Vienna Cafe, and regarded the English title of "Lady" as the highest social distinction, when, as a last echo of these days, the solemn procession of caparisoned elephant and moving strains of sidaw were followed next day by a long drive past lake and camp of wedding guests, in a carriage and four, with liveried Indian footmen and coachmen.”

Baw Gyo Pagoda Festival

Ko Aung Thein, elder brother of my classmate Dr S. Hla Mong, invited me one day to go to the Baw Gyo Pagoda Festival from Maymyo when I was posted at BMH, Maymyo (now Pyin Oo Lwin). I quickly and enthusiastically replied “Yes” as I was free and that was a holiday. I have heard of the Baw Gyo Pagoda Festival since my high school days in Monywa and now I had a chance to see it personally. How fortunate I was!

( Interior of the Baw Gyo Pagoda in Hsipaw; Note the gilded Pillars.)

We therefore went there with Ko Aung Thein driving and his shop assistant Muhammad accompanying us with a basket of food and drinks. The road from Maymyo to Baw Gyo was quite good winding through mountains and forest passing sometime through waterfalls. There were big trees beside the road and we could see a lot of green rice fields up to the horizon.

(Green Paddy Fields of Hsipaw)

Hsipaw is only 128 miles away from Mandalay, so only 80 miles from Pyin Oo Lwin, just about two hours drive. Baw Gyo or Bawgyo is situated 5 miles to the west of Hsipaw. Many Palaung and Shan took part in the festival and gambling was allowed. I remember a friend of mine told me his father was the Daing or Main Dealer of gambling there and on the end of Baw Gyo Festival his father took back money won at the festival in a convoy of cars guarded by armed men and police. The Bawgyo Festival lasts from 5^th to 10^th March.

(The Baw Gyo Pagoda)

My late friend Daw Mi Mi Khaing wrote about the Baw Gyo Pagoda Festival as follows:

“PWES IN BAWGYO

At Bawgyo the main pwe, held at Tabaung full moon, enjoys a large patronage by virtue of its situation on the trunk road from Mandalay to Lashio. This position made it profitable for traders even in the old days to come right from the south of the States, for here they could meet Burmese and Chinese traders and exchange their wares of iron, cotton and bamboo for goods from China, Burma and the Kachin country. Formerly too, the splendour of the Hispaw Sawbwa's camp was a draw.

(The Baw Gyo Pagoda, Hsipaw, Northern Shan State)

To this pwe ground covering many acres for ten days and nights, the old Sawbwa Sir Sao Khe came in full formal procession of ahmudans and nebaings preceeding him on horseback in a V-formation, at the apex of which he rode on his elephant with all the trappings of umbrellas and giltwork. His son Sao On Kya came with a water cavalcade of equal magnificence. With the music and drama of a high quality, fireworks displays initiated by the Sawbwa himself the distribution of largesse to winning circles of villagers, and the prosperity of potential gamblers from every direction it was no wonder that the gambling contract at Bawgyo always netted a magnificent sum.”

A Memorable Trip to Hsipaw

One day in Lashio I told Ma Ohn May and Ma Kyin Mu that I would be going to Mandalay and Meiktila for a week on duty to fetch medicine for the military hospital as the medicines were urgently needed. Ma Kyin Mu said she was also going back to Hsipaw, her home town, on leave during that period. Ma Oh May suggested, “ Hey, Maung Nyo, why don’t you take Ma Kyin Mu in your car up to Hsipaw and then stay there for a day. You may look around Hsipaw as it has many interesting places to see.” “Yes, it’s an interesting idea, but, I cannot leave my army Jeep ambulance unguarded in the streets of Hispaw. If some thing happens I would be responsible,” I replied.

(People Washing Cars in the Myitnge River)

“ Then, both of you take a train together to Hsipaw and let your driver drive the car one day later to fetch you in Hsipaw on the way to Mandalay,” Ma Ohn May gave an alternative. Thus we happened to go by train from Lashio to Hsipaw one early morning. Ma Kyin Mu brought her younger brother Maung Maung with her so that people would not gossip about us. We’re given a whole special compartment from Lashio to Hsipaw.

(Hsipaw Train Station With Many Hawkers; Note the Children.)

The train from Lashio took about three hours to reach the Hsipaw Station. I remember the sun was rising in the east and it was broad day light when we reached Hsipaw. Many vendors were selling and shouting their merchandise mainly fried or steamed food for the travelers. Some vendors were children. Most of the people were Shan or Palaung. Ma Kyin Mu and Maung Maung led me to their house in the centre of Hsipaw town. It was a two storied house made of teak. Ma Kyin Mu mother welcomed me warmly and she asked me to feel at home. She gave us steamed glutinous rice, fried vegetables and soy cakes. I ate them full and Ma Kyin Mu’s mother was glad I liked their Shan food. We then set to see the town on foot.

(A Coffee House in Hsipaw)

Hsipaw was a small town by Burmese standard. There was a cinema, a market and a high school. Ma Kyin Mu took me to the home of her class mate (Nang Kyi Nyunt?) in the Rangoon University who was now a Senior Assistant Teacher. Both she and Ma Kyin Mu were graduates of the Rangoon University. “Why did not you go to the Mandalay University as it is nearer to Hsipaw?” I asked. “We liked to go to the Capital Rangoon, that’s all,” her friend replied. “In my case, my father was a friend of Thakhin Ba Sein and he asked my father to send me to Rangoon so that I had a wider experience than in Mandalay,” Ma Kyin Mu explained. “So, your father was a Thakhin?” I said. “Yes, my father was a well known politician in Hsipaw before he died. He was a member of the AFPFL for independence movement. “Oh, very brave people. That’s why you are so out going and brave,” I commented Ma Kyin Mu. "Ma Kyin Mu is very brave, Bogyi. She argued successfully in the EC meeting of the Shan State Students Association in the Rangoon University that the oranges from Hsipaw are as good as those from Aungban and she would buy Hsipaw species herself for the picnic," Nang Kyi Nyunt added.

(Deco Cinema House in Hsipaw)

We looked around the town, we found so few people in the streets as was the custom in the Shan State. We sat in a tea shop and had tea. Then, we walked to the Dotthawaddy or Namtu River and stood there looking at the river scene for a long time. “I like to go into the river, Bogyi,” Ma Kyin Mu told me. “OK, are you going to swim?” I teased her. “Of course not, just to wet my hands and feet. She replied smiling. We walked into the Dotthawaddy River and put our hands and feet in the water. It was very cold. “It’s cold. I cannot swim in it,” I told Ma Kyin Mu. “Yes, but it gives me pleasure knowing that this river and region belong to me,” Ma Kyin Mu said. “Of course, of course, I feel the same with the water of the Irrawaddy and Chindwin River,” I concurred.

(Myitnge or Dotthawaddy River that Passes Through Hsipaw)

Then, we walked to the Hsipaw Haw. It was a double storied brick house resembling a country home in England. It had a wide Verandah and there was a garden in front. It seemed out of place with the rest of Hsipaw as it was the only good mansion there. The Hsipaw Sawbwa was under detention by the Revolutionary Council during our visit. We did not enter the Haw. We just looked from outside and passed by.

(Hsipaw Haw)

Ma Kyin Mu then took me to the Mahamuni Pagoda. We paid homage to it and donated money for its repair and maintenance. The pagoda was built by King Narapatisithu (Sithu II according to Professor G.H.Luce). “Ma Kyin Mu, we have Sudaungpye Pagoda in Monywa also built by King Narapatisithu of Pagan (Bagan). Our towns are related by him, the Great Builder of these pagodas,” I told Ma Kyin Mu. “Yes, Bogyi. We are. I knew about Monywa from your friend Ko Khin Soe. He is a good friend of mine,” she said. ”Yes, Khin Soe is my good friend too. He and Aye Maung joined the DSA third batch after passing the matriculation examination. Ko Tun Kyi joined the first batch,” I answered.

(Vegetable Sellers in the Hsipaw Market)

Ko Tun Kyi later became a general in the SLORC and SPDC before he was retired. Khin Soe became a Commodore (Brigadier-General) in the Burma Navy before being appointed as the Burmese Ambassador to Vietnam. Aye Maung retired from the Burma Navy as a major (Lieutenant Commander) and joined the merchant navy. He became rich. Aye Maung’s wife Ma Khin Nyo was also our classmate in No. 1 State High School in Monywa. He married the younger sister of our friend Lawyer U Tin Nyunt after Ma Khin Nyo’s death. Khin Soe and Ma Kyin Mu were married while I was in London.

(Mahamuni Pagoda, Hsipaw)

My late friend Daw Mi Mi Khaing wrote about Hsipaw as follows:

“ON BAUNG HSIPAW

Hsipaw State, 4591 square miles in area consists of four sub-states which were amalgamated under one ruler only after British annexation. The main state of Hsipaw occupies about half this total area. To west of it the sub-state of Monglong (Burmese Mainglone) and Hsum Hsai (Burmese Thonze) are situated north and south respectively, while southeast of it lies the sub-state of Mong Tung (Burmese Maingtone). Each of these sub-states is ruled by a Myosa, and after amalgamation, the Myosaship of one or other served as training post for the heir or nephews of the Hsipaw chief. These four states are known in the chronicles as On Baung Hsipaw, from the older capital of On Baung, situated not far north of Hsipaw.

(Lush Green Hsipaw Country)

The whole area lies in a geographical fault which stretches from the Irrawaddy-Salween watershed westwards, creating a comparatively low-lying region which lies immediately north of the central Shan plateau, and which consists of one big valley and several smaller valleys among a mass of low spurs ill-defined and crossing each other all over. The big valley is that of the Namtu, which rising on the Irrawaddy-Salween divide and continuing westward as the Myitnge, flows into the Irrawaddy. Hsipaw is thus properly in the Irrawaddy basin and hence an approach to it from Mandalay via Maymyo takes one almost imperceptibly from Burma proper into the Shan States, In fact Hsipaw town is not unlike a town in the Burma plains, it has the hottest summer weather in all the states, and the Namtu at this point is a placid and swollen river, having just received two feeders.

(The Long Winding Dotthawaddy River)

Further westwards however, in Hsum Hsai, the river cuts deep gorges of 2000 feet or more and offers as picturesque a hill scenery as anywhere else in the States.

Although you will hear Burmese spoken in all the towns of Hsipaw State and though there are a number of pure Burmese settlers, especially in Monglong sub-state, the Shans still form the majority race among the population of about 150,000. There are a good number of Palaungs in the hill-regions to the northwest, also a few Kachins and Taungthus, the latter here reaching the northernmost point of their migration.

(Hsipaw Main Road in an Afternoon)

The wealth of Hsipaw state lies not only in its diversity of produce, but also in its situation on trade routes. The old cart tracks saw an interesting and profitable succession of exchanges. The carters would take rice from the valleys to the hill Palaungs, bring down their tea, and turning westwards to Mandalay, would sell it there to Chinese brokers, bringing back cloth and miscellaneous imported goods by a more southerly route across the Namtu to the valley towns, in the bazaars of which they found a ready sale for Mandalay goods and were able to buy rice to start the round all over again. Today, also, Kyaukme, standing on the railway line from Mandalay to Lashio, at the crossing point of routes to Taungpeng as well as Mogok, is a great economic asset to Hsipaw State. Hsipaw is one of the few Shan States to be traversed by a railway.

(Fishing in Dotthawaddy River, Hsipaw)

The famous Gokteik viaduct spanning the deep gorge which the Nam Hpa Se tunnels after its disappearance underground, is at the 83rd mile on this line. For the visiting motorist also, Hsipaw is a good centre. it adjoins Mongmit, North Hsenwi, South Hsenwi, Taungpeng, Kehsi Mansam and Mongkung, all within easy reach by roads which, except in the case of Taungpeng and Mongmit, take one over smooth surfaces and easy gradients.”

(A Primary School in Hsipaw)

Envoi

The name Hsipaw strikes a soft and sentimental note in my heart whenever I hear it as it reminds me of the last king of Burma and also my sojourns to it several times since my first posting at the Base Military Hospital in Maymyo or Pyin Oo Lwin. I always feel romantic whenever I saw the photographs of green fields in Hsipaw, the clear cascades of waterfalls there and peaceful, quiet and kind faces of the people in Hsipaw. For me Hsipaw is part of Burma related to me and still unforgettable.

Dr Maung Maung Nyo

22.02. 2009