December 29, 2008

Youthful Yearnings in Yunnan

Dr Maung Maung Nyo


I have been to Yunnan twice

I liked it really for its scenic sights

The first time I was young, in 1964

Second time I was old, 18 years ago.


(South East Asia has a long History with Yunnan that includes the

Origin of Its Peoples)


The first time I went in from the Shan State

I crossed the Wanding Bridge as a delegate

Of Medical Corps visiting nearby neighbour

Chinese had willingly invited me to savour;


(The Wanding Bridge Border Post)


They wanted to show us how to live and fix

How to work and succeed like them as Communists

They all wore blue uniforms made of cotton fabrics

I was very receptive, but was not impressed with.


(Some of the Places We Have Visited)


The second time was thirty years later

It was in 1991 I went there as a writer

I was Secretary of Burmese Writers Group

We roamed Yunnan in car, by plane and on foot;

This time the Chinese looked more cheerful

At least they wore different suits all colorful

We saw more departmental stores with goods

We heard life for every one had improved.


(Modern Kunming City, Yunnan, China)


True, the Chinese seemed to be happier

They wore better, they ate better

All Chinese seemed to be fitter and thicker

Some of them were trying to go to America;

They now know China is not the greatest nation

It’s no longer the bastion of Communist revolution

Chinese are set and reputed for money making

They have chosen the path of market economy, capitalism.


(Kunming City by Night)


But, I met some old people still nostalgic about old days

They said they had enjoyed better health and happier ways

Jobs, pensions, hospital and education were more ensured

People did not need to worry for children and their future;

“But, now every thing is on line and comes like tender

Income and expenditures are not balanced and in arrears,

We have to worry every day for our present and future”

They wished Mao alive like before the Red Guards Era!


(Statue of Mao Ze Dong in Lijiang, Yunnan, China)


Yunnan is the cradle of South East Asian nations

Tibeto-Burman, Shan-Tai and Mon-Khmer had origin

Before they traveled south wards along rivers basins

Of Maikha, Malikha, Mekong, Irrawaddy, and Salween

Majority of peoples of South East Asia have settled in

Burma, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam as new nations.


(Rivers of South East Asia Taking Origin in Tibet and Yunnan)


So, I had great interest in exploring Yunnan

I enquired actively about their social customs

Their ways of life, legends, livelihoods and history

Yunnan has proof of Man’s habitat since 5000 BC;

They showed us skulls and bones of human (Homo sapiens)

Man made weapons of Stone Age, Iron Age in Yunnan

Yunnan still has Tibetan, Naxi, Lolo, Nan Chao Tai and Wa

They are the remnants of SEA peoples left behind as tail end!


(Cyclists in Kunming City: They are a scene morning and evening))


Kunming when we visited was a cosmopolitan city

Roads and streets were teeming with human activities

Buses and cars were jammed with people and poultry

Livestock shared the vehicles with men and machinery;


(Burma Teak to be Loaded for Yunnan,China)


Separate lanes for bicycles formed columns of clinking chimes

Mandalay must call Kunming “Big Brother” in the use of bicycles

Burmese goods imported ranged from teak to animals of wild

They hosted us with special dishes of monkey, snake and brine.


(Ledo's Burma-China Road at Baoshan to Kunming)


Since 1990s Yunnanese were talking about importing oil

From Burma coastal regions by laying a pipeline

Through Burma overland and rivers to get to Yunnan

There they would refine it and use or sell it to earn;

They said backyard of China will open to the Indian Ocean

Burma and China would be inseparable by rivers and land

Their foresight was at the expense of a neighboring small nation

I remember King Sinbyushin routing many Chinese invasions.


(Burmese Dresses during Konbaung Sinbyushin's Era,

He repulsed 4 Chinese Invasions from Yunnan))


Most remarkable visit to Yunnan was to the Erhai Lake

It was scenic and seemed like Inlay in the Shan State

It was the seat of Nan Chao King that invaded Burma

During the times of Pyu and ransacked Srikestra;


(The Erhai Lake with Three Pagodas at the Background)


They burnt Halin and took away 3000 Pyu fighters

That led to disappearance of Pyu from early Burma

Erhai Lake was inhabited by Yi, a minority there

Han Chinese dominates the whole of China.


(Dali Old City Wall and Gate,King Anawrahta had Visited in

11th Century A.D.)


We also visited Tali or Dali

It was an old historic city

We saw old city wall and gate

It was ruled by U Ti Phwa the Great;


(Pu Tou Island in the Centre of the Erhai Lake, surrounded by Many

Villages whose Sons Migrated to USA Via Burma)


King Anawrahta visited U Ti Phwa in Dali

He asked for the Buddha’s tooth relic or copy

He was unable to take the relic successfully

Burma since then has to deal with China duly.


(Bridges and Pavilions in the Erhai Lake)


There is a story I was told to remember

20 people from Erhai Lake had fled to Burma

All belonged to a family in the village near

They worked hard, some became doctors

They prospered and migrated to America

They are now sponsoring their villagers' visa.


(The Stone Forest in Yunnan)


We visited a natural wonder called the Stone Forest

We had to drive 3 to 4 hours from Kunming best

The 120 Kilometer long road was smooth and safe

On the way we stopped at different roadside places;


(Stone Forest Teeming With Tourists)


Many houses displayed dried ducks and sausages

We also noticed bundles of corns and chili in laces

Our guides said we could buy them for memory

This was one way to help the Chinese economy.


(Panoramic View of the Stone Forest)


Stone Forest was made of boulders and big rocks

Many looked like tall columns or spikes pointing out

From the centre of earth as though directed to the sky

It was like lances and needles ready to fire at any time;

For an average man it must be the work of the angels

In reality, it was nature that made it admirable

It was originally a place of shallow sea with rock bed

When water receded it left behind eroded rocks rugged.


(Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution 1966-1976)


One thing that struck me was the Yunnan people

They were simple, stolid, friendly and helpful

They offered us sweets and cigarettes as a rule

I said cigarette smoking is dangerous to their health too;


(Monument of Cultural Revolution at Stone Drum Village, Yunnan)


But, Yunnan has many State cigarette factories

What can you do if the State is doing foolhardy?

People were afraid to talk about Mao Ze Dong

Cultural Revolution had frightened them all along

It was excessive and uncontrollable there upon

So people became very vulnerable and forlorn;


(Deng Xiao-Ping, Paramount Leader,Who Finished the Cultural

Revolution, Brought China Back to Order and Economic Development)


Our Interpreter Professor said, “It was despicable”

He himself was sent by Red Guards to the stables

He had to sweep stallions’ shits, scraps and unusable

He was often at breaking point saved only by his scruples.


(People Protest Against General Ne Win and BSPP in August 1988)


Cultural Revolution also almost destroyed Burma

Many leaders of CPB were summarily executed there

Their Pegu Yoma Headquarters was literally littered at

So were above ground Communists by propaganda fads;


(People Protest against U Ne Win and His Party in August 1988)



U Ne Win had benefited much from Red Guards’ errors

Only Deng Xiao-Ping had the means to extinguish theirs.


Villains of Burma; I U Ne Win, II General Saw Maung, III U Sein Lwin)


I sometimes wonder what the world would be like

If there were no cultural revolution and nothing to fight

Would China pursue a peaceful policy for its life right?

Would U Ne Win have scapegoat for abusing our rights?


(Heroes of Burma; the Only Hope for the Burmese)


However, we must fight on for our lives

For our children rights and their future life;

We cannot be satisfied with what we get as best

Because it’s our historic duty to fight for the rest!


Dr Maung Maung Nyo

30.12.2008

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