January 21, 2009

My Premedical Year in Rangoon

Dr Maung Maung Nyo


Prologue


After passing my premedical matriculation examination in April 1955 (Results announced in May) I had to join the special intermediate class opened at the University of Rangoon in June 1955. There was no such class at the Mandalay University at that time. The classes would start on June 16th and my father tried to arrange for my travel to Rangoon since the beginning of June. He bought new clothes for me and made suits made to measure. My father was fond of British style suits and he wanted me to wear them. He taught me how to tie shoestrings, how to tie the necktie and even how to wear trousers after wearing shoes. He was proud of me that I was good in studies.


(Rangoon University Convocation Hall)


Journey to Rangoon


In the second week of June, my brother in law Maung Maung accompanied me to go to Rangoon. This time, my elder brother Hla Than would not take me to Rangoon. He had never been to Rangoon before. Maung Maung was born in Kamayut, Rangoon and he left Rangoon for Burma only in his twenties to accompany his uncle in Monywa. He married my first cousin San San and they lived near us. Therefore, he offered to take me to Rangoon when my father was looking an older person to go with me. We rode a bus from Monywa to Mandalay one June morning .I think it was 12th or 13th June. Our family has no superstition about days of the week and auspiciousness. In fact, my lucky number was 3 or 13. I got my 7th standard scholarship by roll number 13 and I passed my premedical matriculation examination by roll number M 30. The bus rise was smooth and uneventful as the political and security conditions between Monywa and Mandalay had improved. The government was now repairing the rail roads and it was usable at the end of 1956.


(Inya Lake Cock Island, Kyet Kyun)


We went to Head Mistress Daw Kyin Myaing’s home to pay respects to her and to inform her that I was going to Rangoon to joint he special premedical intermediate class in Rangoon. She was delighted and gave me useful advice. She was a graduate of Rangoon University herself and she was proud of it. In those days lady graduates were rare. University education was very costly and many parents did not encourage their daughters to live in Rangoon away from them for four years to get a degree. Daw Kyin Myaing was an exception and she was fortunate. She devoted her life to teaching students until she died. She lived in a two storied wooden house in the centre of Mandalay near the Mandalay Firefighters’ headquarters. We loved her.


(Chancellor Road Viewed From the Convocation Hall of RU)


I went and called on some of the teacher resident in Mandalay the next day before I boarded the mail train to Rangoon the next evening. Saya U Soe Min was pleased to see me go to Rangoon University. “ You keep up your study, Maung Nyo. You are a smart all round person. Now is the time to show your colour and intellect. Study hard!” was his urging.


(Judson Hall Where Students Functions Were Held During Our Time)


Saya U Tin U was also glad that I had passed the examination with flying colours. He told my success to his wife and daughter. They were well known to me too. They gave me good wishes when I paid respects to them by kowtowing. I had kowtowed to Daw Kyin Myaing and U Soe Min too.

At the Mandalay train station we met a young man going to Rangoon like us. He was Ba Saing, a final year forestry student at Rangoon University. He also hailed from Monywa, he told us. We became good friends and shared food and meals. He promised to help me with registration, hostel and other educational matters at the Rangoon University. We were very pleased and we felt fortunate.


(Thit-Poke-Pin On the Chancellor Road Where Love Stories were

Made During Our Days)


The First Time in Rangoon


I was delighted when we reached the main railway station in Rangoon called the Kwangyan Station. Ba Saing was met by his friend and they took a taxi to the Rangooon University Campus where he lived at Amara Hall. He gave us his address and promised us to see me the next day for my university registration at the University Registration Department. We took another taxi to go to Maung Maung’s aunt's house in Kamayut. It was raining and I was struck by the audacity and aggressiveness of the Rangoon vendors.


(Student Union, RUSU, Building on Chancellor Road That Was Demolished by

General Ne Win in July 1962)


Maung Maung’s aunt was surprised and glad that her nephew had come without prior information. She made us at home easily and gave us some tea and snacks. She had a young son with her while her husband was away on a business trip. Maung Maung had a good time talking with her and after a shower she took us to several houses where Maung Maung’s relatives lived. He introduced me to them and they were delighted that I was joining the Rangoon University and Maung Maung had married my sister (cousin). I felt homely with them. Then, Maung Maung’s aunt took us to Kaba Aye Pagoda for sight seeing and paying respects. I was excited with sights and sounds at Kaba Aye Pagoda and along the the road to it. We walked along the Inya Bank, passed Chaw-Dwin-Gon and reached the Kaba Aye Pagoda from the back. It was pleasant and exciting to say the least. It was not crowded in those days and no houses were there except those on the banks of Inya Lake. We walked around its bank up to the Convocation Hall. I was impressed by the Hall and I was glad that I would be belonging to the famed Rangoon University soon.


(Rangoon University Dhammayone or Auditorium)


The next day we went to Ba Saing’s Amara Hall and met him in his room. He accompanied us to the Convocation Hall where we had some business and and then to the Registration Office near the Thit-Poke-Pin. Ba Saing said to me, “This is the famous Thit-Poke-Pin where lovers meet under it. Look! There is a few couples there.” I looked at it and I found some young men and young women there. They looked healthy and well dressed. I understood they were university students by their dress, look and manners. They were different from the people on the street. We finished registering and hostel application as Ba Saing knew all the people there. U Yan Way was the chief hostel warden and he posted me at the Mandalay Hall. I was very glad to have a resident hostel and I found Maung Kaung on the Chancellor Road. He was also allocated in the Mandalay Hall and we shared Room Number 15 near the S and R (Social and Reading) Club Room on the ground floor. We were now confirmed Rangoon University students!


(Cover of The Old Mandalay Hall Residents Association on the Occasion

of the Diamond Jubilee of the Rangoon University with Portrait of College Gin Ne Win)


Maung Maung took me to the Shwedagon Pagoda, Bogyoke Market and Theigyizay the next day. He asked me to buy some presents for my family in Monywa as he was leaving the next night after I had moved to the Mandalay Hall. So, I bought some fancy articles and Durian Jam that my mother liked. I used to bargain prices as I had read Thawdarswe’s articles on Rangoon’s vendors and Maung Maung was very ashamed and told me,

” Why did you ask for a bargain? That money was negligible”. I smiled and replied, “ It was for fun , brother. I was following Thawdarswe’s advice.” He smiled and said,” Oh, You are a literary fanatic!”


(Shwedagon Pagoda, Symbol of Burma and Rangoon)


My University Life


Rangoon University at that time was a unitary university with many faculties under it. I remember Dr Htin Aung was the Rector, but he was abroad most of the time. The Dean of Science was U Pho Thar, Professor of Chemistry and the Dean of Medicine was Colonel Min Sein, Professor of Medicine. Colonel Min Sein alternated with Professor Ba Than, Chief Surgeon at RGH, for the Dean of Medical faculty. It was a part-time job and they served for every two years.


(Rangoon General Hospital or RGH in Short)


We attended the classes at 8.00 AM in the morning and each lecture lasted for 50 minutes. We then took other classes according to the timetable issued to us. We belonged to the Special Premedical Class and we attended our special classes as well as the Intermediate B classes. We were in the B section for that purpose. I remember many of our teachers till today.


(Sule Pagoda in the Centre of Rangoon)


U Myo Min took over the professor post of English from Dr Htin Aung as the latter was appointed the Rector and lecturers (later Professors) Miss E. Kangyi, Daw Thein Nyunt, Daw Tinza Maw Naing, Daw Tin Saw Mu, Daw Khin May and sister Daw Aye Kyin taught us English. Daw Thein Nyunt was memorable as she would recall her England experience when teaching about the English poems and stories. We were prescribed 13 textbooks of English in that year. We read from Shakespeare's to Tolstoy’s. I had to read English every day and memorized all new English words like in the primary class. I always scored highest marks in our tutorial and tests.


(The O'Way Magazine Committee of the University of Rangoon,

1936 With Aung San as the Editor in Black Jacket)


U Aye Maung was our Burmese professor. His “Anu Sarpay Kauk Note Chet (Excerpts From Burmese Romantic Literature)” was a prescribed book for poetry, but there were other books like “Zinattha Pakarthani” and ‘Kyikanshingyi’s Love Letters”. U Ba Myiang and U Hla Shwe taught us most.They became professor later. U Hla Shwe died as the Rector of Mandalay University. I met him several times before he died. I also accompanied Saygyi U Aye Maung’s Funeral to the Kyandaw Cemetery. He donated his house on the University Avenue to the Tipidaka Sayadaw U Wi Seitta. I said three ”Sadu” for his meritorious deed.


(Faculty of Medicine or Rangoon Medical College)


Our physics professor was Dr Maung Maung Kha. He was short in stature, but long in mind and kind. Lecturers Brawaja, U Tin Aung and Saya Chu taught us well. Maung Maung Kha later became Rector of Rangoon University and he was always popular with students. Tin Aung went to America, obtained his Ph.D. and became professor of physics. I have the good fortune of teaching his son to become a medical doctor in Rangoon. I met Saya Chu at the Institute of Medicine 2 as head of the physics department and he died a few years ago. I got lost contact with Saya Brawaja, but his nephew Dr Krisna Brawaja was my good friend who migrated to USA.

U Pho Thar was our chemistry professor, but U San Tun, Mr Chowdhury and B.K. Pal taught us. U San Tun later became a State Councilor during BSPP government as he greeted U Ne Win cordially whenever he met him near the Rangoon University. U San Tun was always warm and hearty and every one coming in contact with him liked him.


(Aung San as President of RUSU and All Burma Student Unions)


Our biology department was unique in the world as it combined botany and zoology. Head of the Department was Dr Lindsey, a Ph.D. in zoology. She was appointed to this job as the former Professor, a veterinarian had resigned. He was Dr Hla Gyaw, husband of Daw Yi Kyein, a prominent lady social worker and educationist. D Hla Gyaw was an MRCVS, Ph.D. (London). Another zoology lecturer with FZS also applied for the same professor of zoology post, but the University Council chose D Hla Gyaw. There was a debate whether a Ph.D. or an FZS was better. So, my teacher Frederick Delphin took both Ph.D. (London) and FZS from London and Calcutta. He was appointed professor of zoology at the Mandalay University, but he migrated to America and attended the M.D course to become a medical doctor. He was then employed as an etymologist that he did before he became a professor of zoology in Burma. What a complicated life for zoologists!


(The Thity Comrades For Burma's Independence: General Aung San

in the Centre of Front Row Between Bohmu Aung in Monk Dress and Thakhin Kodaw Hmaing;

many comrades belonged to Rangoon University Like Bo Aung San, Bo Let Ya, Bo Zeya, Bo Yan Naing)


Well, we were taught zoology by Daw Kyi Kyi, a saintly statue-like beauty who became professor later and we met frequently. Another beauty was Nellie Sa, a daughter of a Shan Saopha and very modern and vivacious. She wore perfume all the time and I always called her to come and show me specimens during my practical classes. She exclaimed,” Why does Mang Nyo call me so frequently?” I told her,” It’s because you are beautiful and fragrant. I’m dissecting the formalin- preserved animals, so strong smelling!”. She smiled and said,” Oh, Maung Nyo, you are so sweet!”. She went for further study abroad and later married a zoology professor in England.


(Thakhin Nu, Left and General Aung San, Right)


Botany was taught by Saya Maung Maung Pyone, Mr Bell and Daw Khin Kyi. Maung Maung Pyone went to America and he missed the plane as he was called by the airline stewardess as” M G M G Pine One “ as he wrote his name in short as “Mg Mg Pyone!”

Daw Khin Kyi later changed to chemistry department. In those days graduates specialized or majored in two or three subjects and they could transfer to any department of their choice of subjects. The most famous was Professor G.H. Luce as he left the English Department for History Department. He became an authority on Burmese History particularly on Pagan (Bagan) Period. His students included Dr Kyaw Thet, Dr Khin Maung Nyunt, Dr Yi Yi and Major Ba Shin. All were prominent Burmese historians.


(Graduates of the Rangoon University: Sitting Zaw Gyi, Left; Minthuwun, Right;

Standing L to R: Zaw Zaw Aung, Win Mun, Aung Thin, Min Maw)


Extra-curricular Activities


The benefit of being a university student is that you are treated as an adult and you

are at liberty to choose your classes, friends, hobbies and societies as well as your future wife. The benefit of belonging to a multi-faculty university is also you have a broader horizon and more opportunities for learning, friendship and experience. I was therefore appalled to hear that a medical graduate from Burma living in USA claimed there is no difference in the experience of graduates coming from single faculty university like institute of medicine and those coming from multi-faculty university like from the medical college of Rangoon University. What a poor fellow! He did not remember his alma mater, his country of birth and now saying those unintelligent nonsense!


(The First Flag of Independent Burma As Envisaged By General Aung San)


I used to visit all the faculties in the Rangoon University with friends and learned what they did. I also attended some general subjects given to them by guest lecturer like the impact of atomic bomb, use of solar energy and measuring and predicting earthquakes etc. Some prominent people like U Thar Myat would come and talked about the Pyu and its language. He said present day Burmans were/are the descendents of Pyu. His talk on Burmese orthography was also interesting. He said spelling Nga Yant as Fish Yant was incorrect as it was a name like Nga Nyo and Nga Phyu. It should just be spelt as Nga Yant and not Ngar (Fish) Yant. He explained the origins of various Burmese words like Tayoke (derived from Tartar and not due to One face or One very mean!), Kalar (A race having caste system, not Ku lar as coming from abroad) etc.


(General Aung San Asking For Burma's Independence in London;

L to R: Bagyi Ba Pe, Clement Atlee, General Aung San, U Tin Tut, Briton)


The Brain Trust held on Saturday nights at Judson all was also well attended. I remember Daw Khin Myo Chit talking about patriotism and U Law Yone on English language. U Law Yone was not a university graduate, but he spoke and wrote very good English. He asked the students to work hard for education and to become graduates at the end of regular time span. He supported the 3-F system of the AFPFL Government as it compelled students to study and pass examination. He gave his son Edwin Law Yone as good example as he was studious to become a medical doctor, not failing any class. He was booed by us at that time, but I now know he was right.


(Lake-Khon Building; First Faculty of Engineering, then, Department of Higher Education

and Institute of Medicine 1 Anatomy and Physiology Departments etc.)


I also took part in the political debates and discussions held at the university. I supported the Tat-U ( Student United Front or SUF) as most of the students were. Tat- U worked for betterment of students’ conditions and aspirations, sometimes at the detriment of the AFPFL Government. It was left leaning to say the least. Many of its leaders joined the opposition parties like Khin Maung Ohn or the underground Communist Party (CPB) like Ba Swe Lay and Tun Kyi. Ba Swe Lay was a leader of Tat-U and later served as the President of Rangoon University Student Union, but he later went underground and died there. Tun Kyi was a third year medical student at the Rangoon Medical College and very enthusiastic about student affairs. He also went underground and was killed by the Burma Army in a fighting. I also remember some Tat-U leaders crossing the fence after graduation. One was Mr Nan Zinlar who relinquished his vice-president of RUSU to become a secretary in the Foreign Affairs Minsistry. Another was Kyaw Myint who similarly discarded the same post to become an official in the trade ministry. They were roundly censured by the students. Incidentally, Kyaw Myint came and lived near me in Rangoon just before I left Burma in 1998.Our houses are on the same street.


(Independence Monument, Rangoon, Burma)


There were picnics arranged by the district students association like the Mandalay Students Association, Prome (Pyi) Students Association and Chindwin (Monywa) Students Association. They would visit Hlawga, Pegu, Syriam (Thanlyin) etc. There would be singing, dances, teenagers’ games etc. Many students found respective girl or boy friend at such gatherings.

We could also participate in religious activities freely. There were Buddhist, Christian, Islam and Hindu students association at the Rangoon University. The Buddhist Association sponsored Dhamma talks, lighting of the Shwedagon Pagoda, Offering Meals to Sangha and religious activities in the University Dhammayone (Buddhist Auditorium). I used to go to the Dhammayone and visit famous pagodas on Buddhist auspicious days.

I also attended lectures given at the Convocation Hall on some Saturdays. Dr Htin Aung, Dr Hla Bu, Professor Pe Maung Tin and Professor G.H. Luce used to give. I was fortunate to have listened to such prominent people.


(Kaba Aye Pagoda Built By U Nu During 6th Synod of Buddhism)

Political Activities


The Rangoon University during our time was full of academic opportunities and political activities. I remember denouncing the AFPFL Government on the suicide of a premedical student named Ma Tin Hla. She resorted to death due to lack of money to buy a dissecting set. She was an orphan and supported by her uncle who was living from hand to mouth as a lowly government officer. Her funeral was staged at the Kamayut Cemetery for the students and poor people from Kamayut. It was fully attended and I was very sad about her.


(U Nu or Thakhin Nu, Former President of RUSU and

The First Premier of Independent Burma)


There was another mass meting I remember at the Students Union Building just in front of the Mandalay Hall. Ex-Brigadier General Kyaw Zaw came to talk about the KMT incursion and how to repel them. The auditorium was packed. We promised to fight and Maung Kaung and I became medical officers in the medical corps after graduation.

U Nu and U Kyaw Nyein also gave talks. They were not very popular with students at that time. They had heir student body called the DSO (Democratic Students Organistion). It was spoken of as a stooge of the AFPFL particularly of U Kyaw Nyein as he was the top socailist leader at that time. Students asked them,” Why did you send your children to missionary schools if the State High Schools are of good standard?” Most of the students in Rangoon University came from the State High Schools in the districts. I actually thanked both of them ( Nu and Nyein) for permitting free education in the country and for initiating the premedical scholarship.


(First Constitution Drawing Led By General Aung San)


Literary Activities


University students in our days were fond of literature. We looked upon writing abilities as an accomplishment and famous varsity writers were popular. We also had a good opinion of editors as General Aung San and Dagon Taryar had been O’Way (Voice of Peacocks) Magazine editors. Many writers took their pen names with Varsity (Tekkatho) in front of their pen name like Tekkatho Maung Thant Zin (Professor Aye Maung), Tekkatho Ne Win ( Personal Secretary to General Aung San) etc. Other prominent university graduate writers were Thein Pe Myint, Nyo Mya, Theikpan Maung Wa, Zaw Gyi, Minthuwun, Aung Thin, Min Maw, Kyi Aye etc.



(Thakhin Kodaw Hmaing, The GOM of Burma)


I therefore wrote in the wall newspapers of the Mandalay Hall named Anaing Makhan (The Invincible). I also distributed them for the Hall. Actually, I had been writing articles and short stories since 7th standard and only the heavy load of learning prevented me from doing so now.

Besides the halls, the district associations and subject associations also published their own numbers. The RUSU (Rangoon University Students Union) also published an annual magazine. The RUSU building was a hive of students’ activities until it was demolished by General Ne Win in 1962. I was in the Shan State at that time.

I devoted my writing only after I obtained my Ph.D. in 1969.


Epilogue


The Rangoon Univerity in our time was a great educational institution with full of activities. Students have more liberty and opportunities than those of the latter generations. Many teachers and students enjoyed scholarships and awards to go and study abroad. The university teachers of later generations were the students and teachers of our time. The University then was autonomous too. The University of Rangoon then was the Oxford of the East and we were very proud of it. I was a full-time Rangoon University student from my first matriculation in June 1955 to my final graduation as M.B., B.S. in March 1961.Hoorah Rangoon University!


(Logo of the University of Rangoon, 1920-1964)


Dr Maung Maung Nyo

20.01.2009

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