My Premedical Years in Mandalay

Dr Maung Maung Nyo

(Mandalay Fort, Moat and Mandalay Hill)

Epilogue

I have spent several times in Mandalay, but the two times were most remarkable.

The first time was when I studied at the No. 1 State High School at Dhadan on the 81^st Street as a premedical matriculation student and the second one was as a medical student at the Branch Medical Faculty, Station Road, near Mingalar Market. Both times were very exciting to me and I remember well both times. Now, I’ll write about my student life in Mandalay.

(The Mahamuni Buddha Image in Mandalay)

Boarding House Or Hostel

In June 1953, my elder brother U Hla Than took four of us, Mya Maung, Bo Htwar, Tin Aung and me, from Monywa to Mandalay first by bus and then by steamer up the Irrawaddy from Myinmu to the Mandalay Gawwain Jetty. There was no train service yet between Monywa and Mandalay as the disrupted railways were not being repaired due to insurgency. We had to take a bus ride from Monywa to Myinmu and thence changed to the steamer there.

(Gaw-Wain Jetty, Mandalay)

The senior premedical student Khin Maung Than told us to put up at the boarding house for them at the Dhadan Street when we arrived in Mandalay. It was a big house owned by Saya U Tha Win, a senior assistant teacher and a bachelor. So U Hla Than told my father’s friend in Mandalay that we would not be putting up at his house. U Sin was his name and he was a class mate of my father at the Laphone High School in Mandalay during the prewar years. Saya U Tha Win supervised Buddhist Dhamma talks at the No. 1 State High School and he invited the German Buddhist monk U Lawka Nahta and Webu Sayadaw to the school. We paid homage to them earnestly.

(Zegyo Clock Tower, Mandalay)

There were about 15 students at U Tha Win’s house and water and electricity were supplied 24 hours a day. Three meals were served every day and students were to pay only Kyat 40 per month. It was an equivalent of about US $10. It was very cheap indeed. The food was also good. However, there would be about 40 students coming that year and U Tha Win could not cope with. So, he requested the Head Mistress of the No. 1 State High School Daw Kyin Myaing that he be spared the warden’s duty that year and to find another suitable place for premedical students. So, the Head Mistress found a new place for us at Saya U Tin U’s house on 76^th Street and Saya U Khin Maung Nyo and U Aye Kyaw, our class teachers for chemistry and physics respectively lived with us as warden and deputy warden. Actually, both were in their late twenties and trying to sit for the final B.Sc. examination on pass or compartmental rights. Both were very friendly, generous and gregarious. We had a good time with them.

(Royal Palace Compound, Mandalay)

Premedical Class

The premedical class was the brain child of Colonel Min Sein, Professor of Medicine and Dean of the Medical College in Rangoon, and U Pho Hto, the Director (now called Director-General) of Basic Education Department to have the bright Burmese students acquired the medical degree in a shorter time than the regular 7 years. So, they chose the winners of the 7^th scholarship examination held through out the Burma. It was first selected in 1952 and only two premedical class centres were opened in Rangoon and Mandalay then. In 1953, 5 premedical centres were opened in Rangoon, Mandalay, Moulmein, Bassein and Kyaukphyu. I belonged to the 1953 intake and we had 46 students in Mandalay. All together 200 students wee chosen through out the country.

(Kyaukse Elephant Dance)

We had to study English, Physics, Chemistry, Biology, Trigonometry, Algebra, Geometry and Mathematics in English and Burmese in Burmese. We had to study Buddhism too. Every morning from 9.00 AM to 9.30 AM we had to pay respects to the Three Buddhist Gems by reciting Buddhist hymns. The non-Buddhist students were spared from that routine or ritual. I sometime said, I was not a Buddhist to escape that routine when I liked to read the lessons for half an hour. But, my class teacher U Tint Hlaing would not spare me and he said that I belonged to a Buddhist family and I must be religious.

(Statue of Buddha on Mandalay Hill Pointing to the Mandalay City)

He was very fond of me as I was topping the class in the class tests. U Tint Hlaing taught us Biology and Algebra. He was a good teacher. He later became the Director-General of Fisheries Department in Rangoon and he used to come and see me when I became Professor of Anatomy at Institute of Medicine 2, Mingaladon, Rangoon. I helped his son pass the second MB examination.

Premedical Activities

The premedical lessons were given all in English except Burmese and we had to perform the practical in science subjects. We were learning the basic sciences for the first time and it was very difficult at the beginning and some students could not follow it. Therefore one or two students applied to withdraw from the course and it was granted. One student from Bhamo graduated B.A. later and became a teacher. Another student from Monywa became an Engineer and he migrated to USA in his late forties. But, the rest of the class continued as premedical students studying hard all along to become doctors.

(Sagaing Hill Dotted With pagodas)

We usually studied from 6 AM to 8 Am in the morning and then we took shower and breakfast. We went to school at 8.30 AM and at 9.00 AM we had to stand in the assembly and saluted the national flag singing the National Anthem, “ This is our country (Dar Dho Pyay)”. Then, we recited Buddhist scriptures up to 9.30 AM. Only then our classes began. There was a break at 12 noon for lunch and classes began again at 1.00 PM. It continued up to 4.00 PM. We rode back to our boarding house or hostel then. We would rest for about half an hour and then we would play, usually cane ball or badminton. Sometimes we played football. We stopped playing at about 5.30 or 6.00 PM, took shower and dinner.

(Sagaing Hill and Inwa Bridge, Wrongly Called Sagaing Bridge)

We then studied up to 10 or 11 PM. I usually studied from 7 PM to 12 PM. Some of my friends teased me not to study that much as the medical course to become a doctor would take us 8 or 9 years saying, “We must maintain our health”, but I went on studying on my schedule and they did not bother me again when I topped the class at the first class examination.

(Maha-Aungmye-Bonzan Okkyaung Built by Mai Nu, Inwa)

On Saturday, we would wash our clothes and after lunch we would go to town for cinema or walking at Zegyo, the most crowded place in Mandalay where we could buy anything and we saw beautiful Burmese girls. I used to go out with Bo Htwar and Khin Maung Than for eating out at Yonedawgyi that was situated at the junction of 84^th and 29^th Streets. We could eat all Chinese, Burmese and Muslim foods there. The Mandalay Hotel or Restaurant was very famous for good food at that time.

(Mingun Bell Weighing 9 Tons, The World's Largest; In Burmese it says 55555 Viss)

I had a good supply of money at that time as my parents sent me pocket money in addition to my scholarship and stipend that were more than enough for the hostel fees. There were no tuition fees to be paid as education then was free. I was very fortunate that I did not have to pay any tuition fee for my school and university years until I graduated M.B., B.S. in March 1961. I would like to give credit to the AFPFL Government for that free education system for the country.

(Mingun Sinbyume Pagoda)

On Sundays, Saya U Tint Hlaing would take us to various parks, pastures and places around Mandalay for excursion to study animals and plants. There would be about 20 or 30 students at first, but later only 10 or 20 students were left for his excursions. I was always with him. We had to study each plant and we had to write botanical formulas for them. After studying 5 to 10 plants we would have picnics. Families of some Mandalay students would give us local food like steamed glutinous rice, fried vegetables, Mohinga and Nangyithoke etc. It was both learning and entertainment.

(Maymyo or Pyin-Oo-Lwin Town Centre)

We also went to visit nearby places like Tada-U, Inwa, Sagaing. We visited those places several times as there were class mates from Tada-u and Sagaing. Maung Kaung was from Sagaing. He’s proud of his town. He took us to Kaung Mu Daw Pagoda and Sagaing Hills. I was happy looking at the Sagaing Bridge or Ava Bridge across the Irrawaddy River. It was the only bridge across Irrawaddy at the time. Sagaing Hills was beautiful in the early morning and at moonlit nights. It was studded with white and golden pagodas. Many saintly Buddhists live on the Sagaing Hill for meditation.

(Royal Botanical Gardens, Maymyo; Note a Black Swan in the Pond)

At other weekends when U Tint Hlaing was not taking the excursions, Saya U Khin Maung Nyo would organize bicycle trip out side Mandalay. He would ride a bicycle himself and we would go to the Yankin Hill, Me U Hill, Mandalay Hill, U Bein Bridge and Amarapura etc. Sometimes he would lead us to farther places like Shwe Sar Yan Pagoda and Myintnge. Sometimes U Khin Maung Nyo would take us by train to Kyaukse and Ghokhteike.

(Gokteik Viaduct Bridge)

I remember going to Mingun by bicycles and we had to sleep at the Buddhist Monastery near the Mingun Bell as it was too late to come back to Mandalay. We had to request an old couple with a grownup daughter to cook for 20 odd students for an evening dinner. We paid an appropriate amount of money for their services. They cooked village chicken curry, spicy tomato and fish paste, fresh vegetables Salad and steaming hot rice. It was one of the most delicious meals I had for some time. We came back to Mandalay the next morning that was Monday and the school was open. We were late for about one hour and Head Mistress Daw Kyin Myaing scolded the two teachers U Khin Maung Nyo and U Aye Kyaw and we were given the warning.

(Maymyo Waterfall)

It’s true that misfortune never comes alone. One Sunday, U Tint Hlaing, U Khin Mung Nyo and U Aye Kyaw organized a picnic for the two premedical classes that had about 80 students. They hired two buses and two Shan Ozis (Long drums). We went to Maymyo or Pyin-OO-Lwin early in the morning from Mandalay and arrived in Maymyo two hours later. We visited the Royal Lake, Botanical Gardens and BT Brothers Swimming Pool. We had a good time in swimming.

(Paikchimyaing Cave with Pond and Budha Statues, Maymyo)

We then had lunch and dances with Shan Ozi. The Ozi players were so jubilant and may be a bit euphoric with alcohol that they hit with force and the drums became cracked. We did not know until we arrived back in Mandalay in the afternoon. Luckily U Tint Hlaing asked the owner the cost of damage and the owner charged us only Kyat 400.Each student had to pay five Kyats at the end of the month that we willingly paid. Whatever the compensation the important thing was that we enjoyed the picnic trip to Maymyo and we were grateful to our teachers.

(Five Standing Buddha Statues on Kyaukse Hill)

U Khin Maung Nyo also took us by train to Kyaukse. He telephoned his uncle in Kyaukse that we were coming for a day visit and his uncle kindly feted us about 20 students with lunch and snacks. He also took us to the Kyaukse Hill and Webu Sayadaw by his guides and himself. It was a most satisfying trip by train as we came back from Kyaukse by Rangoon Mandalay Express Train that was brand new at that time.

(Cyclists Riding at the Foot of Mandalay Hill)

Then we had an education exhibition in December and January on the Southern Moat Plaza. The Premedical Class catered three sessions namely physics, chemistry and biology. I took responsibility in explaining common physical phenomenon like gravity, magnetism, electricity and hydraulics to laymen. I could explain fluently and emphatically in Burmese and English and Saya U Aye Kyaw, my physics teacher, was very much impressed. There were some junior science teachers from the Mandalay University College who would test us for higher theories. We would then refer the questions to our respective teachers and the problem was solved. Sometimes, some heated exchange ensued and we would ask the questioners to explain themselves. Then, laughter erupted. It was great fun.

(Famous Mandalay Thingyan or Water Festival)

The chemistry session showed the extraction of oxygen and hydrogen gases in the laboratory and the produced hydrogen gas was stored in a cylinder. Then, we bought some packets of rubber balloons and inflated each ballon with hydrogen gas. We sold those balloons as Sky Fling Balloons (Mo Pyan Bubaung) and it sold like hot cakes. We were wearing the premedical uniforms of white Hawaii shirt and Khaki trousers with polished shoes. Each of us had a fountain pen, wrist watch and cap, so looking smart. The Anyar audience was struck with our attires and affability. I think we impressed the Mandalay people what the premedical students were. It was a successful educational exhibition for us.

(Kaungmudaw Pagoda, Sagaing)

At the end of first year, U Khin Maung Nyo and U Aye Kyaw passed their respective B.Sc. final examinations held by the University of Rangoon. So, U Khin Maung Nyo applied for a geologist post in Rangoon and he was appointed. Similarly, U Aye Kyaw applied for Burmah Petroleum Company (BOC) in Syrium (Now Thanlyin) and he was also appointed. Both of them left us at the end of the first year. U Tint Hlaing continued staying in Mandalay as he had married a Bhamo beauty in Mandalay in Thadingyut that is October. He rented a two storey house in front of our hostel and students were admiring his wife. He was not angry, but proud of her.

(U Bein Bridge, Amarapura, Built from the Timber of the Old Palace)

Then, he sat for his B.Sc. final examination in June and he passed also. His wife wanted him to continue staying and teaching in Mandalay as she also passed the matriculation examination and she could attend the Mandalay Uinversity. But, U Tint Hlaing’s parents wished him back to be in Rangoon and they looked for a job for him. He eventually got a biologist job at the Fisheries Department. So, he left us at the beginning of our second year. Htar Htar that is his wife’s name attended the Rangoon University and she instantly became a star. Many students tried to court her not knowing that she was already married. I had a cordial relation with U Tint Hlaing until he died of old age in the 1990s. They had a son who became a medical doctor in the Burma Army.

(Thanbuddhay Pagoda, Monywa, Built During WW II)

Second Year Premedical Class

Every thing went smoothly in our first premedical year. My parents were delighted that

I learned a lot from Mandalay in dress, behavior and speaking. My father had lived in Mandalay during his high school and during the Japanese Occupation Period. So he was fond of it. U Hla Than also took time to accompany us to Mandalay after the summer holiday for the second year. This time we took a ship from Monywa to Pakokku and then changed to a bigger steamer that went to Mandalay. We slept one night in Pakokku and another night in Myingyan. Both nights were enjoyable except for the mosquitoes.

(The Irrawaddy River Cruise Ship)

In the second year, our hostel was changed from U Tin U’s house to a vacant house owned by the Education Ministry at the back of the General Post Office on C (Cee) Road. It was close to the West Moat. This time, Saya U Soe Min took charge of us as the Hostel Warden. He was a bachelor (Single) and he taught us English. Besides, he sponsored sport for us. We played basket ball and badminton as he played them too. We had a happy time with him as he was good-natured, benevolent and taught us English and Chemistry at his free times. He had taken Chemistry during his university years. He only later changed to history and English literature for his final B.A. examination that he passed with distinction.

(The Bagaya Teak Monastery, Inwa)

He would give us a talk on every important day of the nation (Burma) like the National Day, Independence Day, Union Day, Resistance Day etc and we would join us for meals to eat together as celebration. He then read us some news from the Nation and the Burman newspapers. I got the habit of reading English newspapers from him. I got the highest marks in English at the final matriculation examination.

(Burmese Beauty Sao Ohn Nyunt in Mandalay Era Dress)

He would also teach us how to act in play. We staged a play on the school opening day and I was selected as the main actor. I am an old man looking for a groom for my daughter, but I do no agree to any rich and rowdy suitor until I meet a medical doctor. It’s a hilarious script and the audience exploded with explicit uncontrollable laughter. All the teachers of the No.1 State High School of that time still remember me for that act. U Soe Min married before our final examination and he died as a lecturer in English at the Mandalay University after he came back from Hawaii East West Center about 20 years ago. I was very sad for his demise.

(Mandalay Before WW II Near the Clock Tower of Zegyo Market)

Results of the Premedical Matriculation Examination

We sat for the final premedical matriculation examination in the first week of April 1955 and I did very well in all subjects. Both the written and practical examinations were conducted at the University College, Mandalay. We hired two buses to take us from our residence to the University College every morning and to send us back after the examination. Aung Khin and Thein Maung Myint took care of hiring as they were older and monitors of our class. They were reliable and good persons. The examination was over just before the Thingyan or Burmese Water Festival. We splashed scented water to each other before we parted for our home towns.

(The Last King and Queen of Burma from Mandalay, Thibaw and Suphayalat)

The examination results came out on the 30^th of May and I passed from the First Division with Distinction in Physics. Only 6 students passed from the First Division and we were to join the University of Rangoon for the one year before joining the medical college. The rest of the class passed from the Second Division with a few failure and they had to proceed to the Intermediate A or junior class like other ordinary matriculated students.

So, I saved one year to become a doctor and my scholarship was ensured until I graduated M.B., B.S. Only 30 students from Rangoon, Moulmein, Bassein and Kyauk Phyu premedical matriculation centres altogether passed from the First Division, the Rangoon center taking the lion share. Later, I found out that I scored highest aggregate marks in the examination and I stood first in the whole country. My class teacher Saya U Soe Min and Head Mistress Daw Kyin Myaing were delighted. Both were proud of me when I became Professor of Anatomy at a young age, just over 30 years and when I won the National Literary Prizes in 1975 and 1976.

(My Hope to be Trained at The Rangoon General Hospital)

Envoi

Most of my classmates of the premedical class at Mandalay eventually became doctors. Aung Khin has now migrated to USA. Thein Maung Myint became a community medicine specialist and retired as Deputy Director-General of Medical Science Department. Khin Maung Than changed his subject combination and became a professor of psychology at Mandalay University. Win Pe also changed his subject combination and became a poet and literary critic in Burma. He is now in the USA. Maung Kaung became a captain in the Burma Army Medical Corps and died by ambush in Thaton, Mon State.

(My Aspiration to Study and Pray in Rangoon; This is the Shwedagon Pagoda.)

Dr Maung Maung Nyo

20.01.2009